« First « Previous Comments 165 - 170 of 170 Search these comments
That peace of mind will cost you 20%
The concept of design / build can save you some of the General Contracting costs by having the sub contractors directed by the people who put the project together.
You're never going to get out of all of the costs so you might as well bite the bullet and let others direct the installations.
After all that is all the manufacturer will warrant, that the installation is done to spec.
It's kind of a slippery slope, but here in Seattle some of the builders, or design groups, are pretty flexible.
My contractor will be doing some work for me in the slow month of December at $45 per hour. Back a few years he would have been a good guy rate of $60 and retail at $120 per hour.
It's a good time to build, and take advantage of General Contractors.
Darrel!
In God we trust, all others bring data.
You never have any data.
I have no idea what Wash. GC rules and laws are. I have studies the Cal GC rules and laws, but that was 25 years ago.
Step 1: Find a lot and get the APN plot map (gives prop line demensions)
Step 2: Get the design you want, and get some detailed plans of that house fitting on your lot.
IMHO, hip roofs are the best way to go. Limited cuts in the roof reduce possible leaks. It rains alot there so put shallow gutters and lots of downspouts. Doormer windows are friggin stupid. 8 foot high walls inside is perfect, more just means higher energy costs and cob webs. Solid doors are normally just exterior, but think about them inside too for their sound killing abilities. Whole house fans work well. Gas stoves make better tortillias. Hot water circ units are a good idea if it's 50 feet from tank to shower head, but instant hot units are better. Never use flat paint on anything. Raised foundations are better, use TJI's, 1-1/8 sub ply, Liquid Nail, ringshanked nails, and have a fat dude nail it off. Double front doors are nice for moving. Speaking of that, leave the inside doors off the hinges until you get moved in. Put the wall protector spring things in the very instant you set the doors. Put access panels in the area where the shower mixing valve is, or at least try to put the shower valve opposite a closet .... they will leak and need fixing. May be better to go old-school two handle and avoid the crappy non-scalding stuff they sell now. I'm just rambling now ... lol
I have lots of flat work input, when you ask.
Bap, I know we've disagreed on a lot of stuff in the past, but I appreciate your experience.
We're thinking about scaling this project down a bit after actually measuring some of the rooms in our existing house. I'm thinking 2700 is the sweet spot for us now. My wife actually wants to go smaller so that there's less to clean, but I don't want to have to give up my exercise room or TV room :)
Kevin,
That's what's cool about this site. I have asked for opinions about real-life stuff and that same folks that bust my chops put out good info. It's all good here on PatNet.
My brother in-law is a custom builder in Seattle. Greywolf Construction 360-620-2484. He has remained very steady throughout the recession, apparently doing very good work. His name is Todd. It can't hurt to get a bid and look at some of his other jobs.
« First « Previous Comments 165 - 170 of 170 Search these comments
I've decided that since I have to live out in the 'burbs anyway, I might as well live in the perfect house. 9 out of 10 builders around here just slap together the same old generic qasi-craftsman style homes with awful layouts and pointless features like tiny unusable porches and formal living rooms.
We have a crap ton of money and I'm overpaid.
We're looking to buy a few acres of land and then spend ~$800k to build the thing (architecture, land prep, construction, etc.)
Does anyone have experience with having a custom home built (particularly modern design; no shingles or crown molding here)? Was it worth it compared to what you could have bought for the same amount of money? How was the financing?